Kieran Kilcawley described his talk at the Malting Barley Conference held by Teagasc and Boortmalt in February as light entertainment. However, that light entertainment session had the speaker’s audience enthralled.
After all, Kieran is investigating Terroir and whether or not it exists in barley. If he finds it does, then, it could be a major development for Irish farmers supplying grain to the Irish whiskey industry.
He described how Terroir is used as a marketing tool in French wine production. The Sligo man described his work as flavour chemistry, which he carries out with a team based at Moorepark and Ashtown.
Flavour chemistry, according to Kieran, is like “CSI-type stuff for flavour”. The equipment used is similar to that used in drug testing in sport. However, he stated that drug testing is easier because they know what they’re looking for.
The focus of the work carried out at Moorepark and Ashtown was traditionally on dairy, but in recent years that flavour chemistry research has extended across all sorts of food and beverages.
Testing dairy products from grass and concentrates
To give an example of what can be achieved, a major project being worked on at the minute is distinguishing between dairy products produced from grass and concentrates.
We’re working on a big project trying to find bio-markers for pasture-based dairy products. We’re well on our way to doing that.
The Teagasc scientist explained that flavour can be affected by two main factors – the taste and the smell. The smell or the aroma is much more important than the taste. It’s complicated to put simply.
10% of people have a really good sense of smell and 10% have a really bad sense of smell. There are thousands of aroma compounds which go up your nose and send signals to your brain.
Using an example, Kieran said if you put a mint in your mouth and block your nose, you won’t taste the mint.
Flavours in whiskey
Flavours in whiskey often come from the barrels or the age. They may change in the distillation process. Different types may be blended together. Terroir examines if the site barley was grown on can affect the flavour.
Does Terroir in barley exist?
Waterford Distillery will launch its first spirit in the coming months. The company only carries out single farm distillations, so its product is completely traceable from farm to glass.
These samples are being examined for differences before they go into the barrel.
Kieran said that no difference was found between varieties, but added that there seemed to be a difference between sites and that more research is needed and is being carried out on 2019 samples.
He noted that: “There possibly is a Terroir effect based on where the barley was grown and it’s coming all the way to the distillate. That’s kind of unique and interesting.”